Anand

The highlight of our trip so fare has been the people. Isn't that how it should be? I find that the sights are often oversold by the tourism industry and ruined by totally unrealistic expectations and the general weariness that heavy travel can induce. Our hosts and guides and service staff have been nothing but unbelievable - gracious, friendly, caring. I have a tendency to imagine nefarious motives when people are helping me - do they like me or are they angling for a big tip? - instead of saying: "OK. This is a really nice person."

In Khajuraho we were shown the sites by a wonderful young guy named Anand. At one point he asked us how long we had been married, and the we told him that although our actual anniversary was a few months back that we celebrated 25 years of wedded something or the other by taking this trip.

"OK," he said. "I think I would like to give you a small favor - I have a lot of respect for people who have been together a long time."

At the end of our final day he took us to a nice restaurant. On our small table was a small vase of cut flowers and the window that looked out over the street was covered with balloons and other simple garlands. He disappeared for 10 minutes, finally returning with all of the restaurant staff AND our guide from earlier in the day - who had taken the time to join us - carrying a large cake covered with candles: "Happy 25th Anniversary." They gave us a small decorative scimitar carried by the ethnic people of this province and we cut the cake together, while everyone sang a song that so overwhelmed us that we can't even remember what it was. The other patrons in the restaurant even came by and joined in.

The cake was delicious. We inhaled the food. We will not forget Anand. Ever.

And we still had a huge breakfast the next morning.